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The American South is the land of comforting eats that don’t ask for forgiveness; quintessentially fat-centric with buttermilk, bacon grease, flour and cornmeal coatings, buttery pan drippings and the deep fry in their DNA. Though noncomplex at the surface, if prepared mindlessly, such foods can quickly find themselves in the realm of greasy mediocrity. But at Palmetto, Gavin McAleer is plating up dishes that exemplify the famous Southern hospitality of a country kitchen.
The fare introduces itself with cornbread slicked with sweet sorghum butter; laid-back pimento cheese dip aptly matched with saltines and butter crackers; crispy-shelled hush puppies (corn batter balls) and a welcome surprise of spicy devilled eggs – a snack rarely spotted outside of family gatherings. Southern salutation also demands the offering of a cool glass of iced tea, so say yes to a refreshing mix of icy peppermint with gin, green chartreuse and bitters, classic Southern sweet tea spiked with bourbon that goes down oh-so-easy or a sweet and tart blend of lemon drop Moonshine, tea, and vodka that is Palmetto’s take on the Arnold Palmer.
Though it would be criminal to skip Palmetto’s sides of baked mac and cheese and potato salad, the main dishes are filling, complete meals in themselves. Grainy spoonfuls of the creamiest grits greedily soak up the robust gravy from grillades (a Creole dish of browned and braised bits of meat), while the crispy fried foods are done right – the kitchen’s amply seasoned batter evenly coating joints of juicy fried chicken and ‘Captain’s Corner’ chunks of flaky catfish.
End on a sweet note by breaking through an individual pecan pie’s brittle sugar crust to a treacly, nut-laden filling – it’s like mouthfuls of browned butter and sugar pudding in a rich pie crust. Afterwards, roll yourself home.
Dinner for two with
drinks around 350RMB
