The Cannery

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  • Western
  • Western
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  • Western
  • Contemporary/Fusion
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1107 Yuyuan Lu

With spotlights pointed at a mock copper tiled ceiling overhead, walking into The Cannery feels a bit like entering a giant bar of gold. But while it may seem a little tuhao on the face of it, this new Yuyuan Lu spot from the people behind perenially popular Rockbund hang out The Nest actually serves up a laidback elegance, with its stylish interior paired with casual, filling dishes and excellent drinks.

Food-wise, the menu is concise but well executed. There’s a range of freshly flown-in seafood at market prices which changes daily, with staff behind the central bar area steaming mussels and shucking oysters, so make sure you enquire about the specials. From the regular options, appetisers include tasty slices of grilled octopus (78RMB) coated in a zesty preserved lemon dressing and topped with a sprinkle of watercress – a perfect summer starter – and a ‘cannery’ of rich duck liver mousse served with butter soaked toast that’s a steal at 48RMB.

There’s also a large smoked yellowfish tuna jaw (98RMB), which with its small side of crispy potatoes could easily pass as a main. The spicy glaze and garnish of daikon and horseradish pick up a fruity twang from the addition of lemon and are excellent, though the meat inside is relatively bland. Better (from the mains proper) is the simply presented but superbly judged grilled lobster (198-298RMB), which features a wonderfully smokey edge from the charcoal grill and comes with a decadent smoked sriracha butter.

To wash it all down, there’s a good range of craft beers, with Baird’s Wabi Sabi and Brewdog’s Vagabond Session Ale among the rotating offerings on tap (all 48RMB) on one visit, plus wines by the glass starting from 58RMB. But it’s the creative signature cocktails that are the stars of the show, with the bar staff freed from the Bacardi shackles of The Nest.

Aside from the Pecorino Negroni (88RMB), where the strong nose of cheese becomes too much after a few sips, every Cannery cocktail we’ve tried has been outstanding. The Hopped Pina Nueva, with Grunion Pale Ale adding lightly hoppy notes to a ‘secret pina colada mix’ and coconut rum (88RMB), the Peanut Butter Old Fashioned with its gently PB-infused bourbon, chocolate bitters and salted caramel (78RMB) and the surprisingly easy going Cold Fashioned of bourbon, cold drip coffee and maple syrup (88RMB) are all masterful.

In short, The Nest team have another winner. Get there now.

By Jake Newby

Venue name: The Cannery
Contact:
Metro: Jiangsu Lu
English address: Bldg 1, Room 106, 1107 Yuyuan Lu, near Jiangsu Lu, Changning district
Chinese address: 长宁区愚园路1107号1号楼106室, 近江苏路